Raw Notes #
This is a temporary page containing raw, unedited notes on this subject. This page and the information here is incomplete, and may be inaccurate.
Marking: This is a critical job, with marks placed on multiple pieces.
- The bottom cassette piece, which for me is a single piece of aluminum.
- A mark across the width of it for the center of the effective edge. This is used to align the cassette to the mold when it all goes in the press. This is also used to align both layers of glass and the top sheet during layup. It is also used to align the base before adhering it to the cassette with Super77 spray glue.
- Marks for the center, lengthwise, at each end of where the board will be. Used to align the base, glass, and top sheet.
- These marks must be visible outside the bounds of all materials that go in the board.
- The core.
- Centerlines on the nose and tail, and the center of the effective edge. You want these on the edges of the core so you can align the core with the base easily.
- Both layers of glass
- Centerlines on the ends, and marks for the middle at the effective edge. Makes it very easy to get your glass placed straight the first time during layup.
- The topsheet.
- Centerlines on the ends, and marks for the middle at the effective edge. With a little precision laying out your lines you can a) place your topsheet accurately quickly during layup, and b) can get it dead center. This is critical for any graphics or designs which have a center line, as it will be obvious if you’re off when you drill out the inserts.
- I wax both the top and bottom mold skins with Johnsons paste wax. I buff the top skin, but not the bottom skin.
- I leave a strip of unwaxed area on the bottom skin about 4-5" wide and about the length of the effective edge. This is where I add Super77 spray glue to adhere the base.
- I reuse mold skins, so the first step is to remove any old epoxy. There is always some left around the edges of where the board was. Most of it just pops off, but some may need to be scraped with something stiff and hard, or maybe sanded. Try not to score the skin, you want it smooth.